LIV, Laugh, Love (and Sip): Lopez Island Vineyards & Winery
I love a good wine tasting. My friends and I have done many a-rounds of Woodinville’s winery loop. I’ve sipped on whites, and reds, and rosés overlooking Lake Chelan. Heck, I’ve even been to a blind champagne taste test where we disguised cheap and expensive bottles of bubbles with paper bags to see which reigned supreme. Unsurprisingly, my $15 bottle of Co-op bubbles came in 2nd place. But I’ve never experienced a tasting quite like the one a few of us from the Co-op were recently treated to at Lopez Island Vineyards and Winery (LIV).
What began as a cloudy September morning, quickly evaporated into a gorgeous early-fall day, offering all of us a fantastic Thursday out of the office. After a smooth and sunny boat trip out to Lopez Island, we were greeted at the dock by one half of the LIV team, Maggie. In very Pacific Northwest fashion, we piled into her Subaru and took the quick windy drive over to LIV’s peaceful slice of Lopez Island’s north end. After giving the farm dog Roca lots of love and pets and taking time to notice the grapes winding their way around well-worn trellis, we made our way into LIV’s makeshift tasting room/bottle labeling space/trophy and award room/farmhouse.
Maggie pulled out the bottles and started the tasting with a detailed history of her and her partner Brent’s life on Lopez Island. Brent, the winemaker and other half of team LIV, is described by Maggie as detail-oriented, particular, and mathematical in his approach to the art and science of winemaking, and, of course, well balanced by Maggie’s effervescence, zest, and spirited love for the business.
As one of the first UC Davis graduates to double major in both enology (the study of winemaking) and viticulture (the study of grape cultivation), Brent has the unique experience of both successfully growing grapes on the west side of our state (not an easy task!) and transforming them into some really incredible wine (also not easy!). Throughout our conversation, Maggie reflected on the way in which Brent can notice even the smallest of variations between one vintage and the next, and while he chalks it up to science, she’s blissful in knowing that as with life, you rarely produce the same results twice when dealing with the ever-changing climate, temperatures, and personalities of the Pacific Northwest.
Maggie kept us waiting. Before we could dive in, we followed Maggie out to the vineyards, under the elaborate row covers designed to keep the island dwelling birds, bees, and raccoons away from the nearly 40-year-old vines. Yes, you read that correctly: Brent and Maggie have been dutifully tending to some of their grapes since 1987. In fact, LIV is the oldest vineyard and winery in San Juan County. Walking through the rows, we were encouraged to try some of the greatest grapes I have ever tasted in my life.
Deeply flavored, juicy, and unbelievably complex, it’s easy to see how these grapes translate into a unique pour that calls for lots of sipping, swirling, and contemplation. Maggie shared some of the pitfalls and grape growing tricks she and Brent have learned from trial and error over the years. I’d be remiss to not also mention Maggie’s notes on how to properly, and efficiently, prune back older vines – this led to an anecdote about how some new fancy electric pruners have made the job much more pleasant over the years, despite some initial skepticism. After basking in the sun for just a bit longer, we made our way back into the tasting room.
One by one, we tried four of LIV’s wines we recently brought in, starting with the extra-special, and my personal favorite, Madeleline Angevine, commonly known as Mad Angie to those who’ve had it. If you aren’t familiar with the Madeleine grape varietal, you’re not alone. It isn’t a grape you’ll see often, if ever. A French grape that’s also grown in Germany, and you guessed it, the Pacific Northwest, Madeleine Angevine grapes grow best in cooler climates. In fact, aside from some vines on Vancouver Island, LIV is the only vineyard growing Madeleline Angevine in the Pacific Northwest. Dry with a low acidity, Mad Angie has a lightly sweet flavor and a slight zing, thanks to the method this wine is oak barrel-aged. According to Wikipedia, “In Washington State, the grape has developed a cult following in the Puget Sound region for its floral character and easy-drinking nature.” Cheers to that.
Next, we gave the Siegerrebe a try. Following a giggly discussion of the proper way to pronounce this German wine (it’s still up for debate), we were greeted with a deeply aromatic glass that smells as sweet as the grapes themselves taste. A trick of the nose! The taste is much less fruity and much more crisp and dry, with a dash of spice. If you want a light, drinkable glass of wine, look no further than the “Ziggy.”
Up next was the Chardonnay. Personally, I’m not usually a Chardonnay gal – I’ve never felt fancy enough for it, and a dry Pinot Grigio is my default. But this Chardonnay received resounding sounds and head nods of delight from the whole group, myself included. My palate was flooded with perfectly sweet notes of vanilla and fruit, with a dash of new oak, thanks to the barrel fermentation process of the wine. It still had a buttery mouthfeel, which more experienced Chardonnay drinkers will appreciate.
Last, but definitely not least, was LIV’s Sangiovese. Words I scribbled down to describe this red? Buttery, savory, creamy, slightly sweet. I’m not one for a sweet red – it usually gives me a headache before I’ve even taken a sip. Needless to say, the Sangiovese definitely hit the spot. Featuring grapes grown in the Rattlesnake Hills on Elephant Mountain – east of the Cascades – this delightful wine has ripe cherry and blackberry flavors followed by a crisp, spicy finish.
I think I speak for the whole group of us when I say that Lopez Island Vineyard and Winery’s offerings are superb. Finding really good wine this side of the state is rare, and LIV sure does have the science (and art) of grape growing and wine making down to a T. While this is certainly due to Brent’s scientific mind and detailed approach, Maggie’s vivacious energy and skill for vineyard pruning is certainly a huge piece of their success as well. Grab a bottle (or two) of this hyperlocal wine and LIV a little!
Cheese Manager Jeni’s LIV Pairings
Let’s not forget the incredible spread of cheese, crackers, meat, olives, and fruit our Cheese Manager Jeni prepared for us to snack on after our winery trip. Jeni’s the best.
Here are her pairing suggestions for each LIV wine. You can’t go wrong.
Madeleine Angevine: Delice, a French triple cream brie and a sweet Evercrisp apple
Siegerrebe: Mango Ginger Stilton and Marcona Almonds
Chardonnay: Daniels Reserve or Wookey Hole Aged Cheddar and dried apricots
Sangiovese: Cambozola or Point Reyes Blue Cheese, and dark chocolate