The Skagit Barbecue

Summer often finds me hunched over a grill. Charcoal grilling is a skill that I’ve developed over time, through trial-and-error, feeding friends and family many successful meals, and more than a few failures. As I considered this article and the time of year, I realized that I might distill down a few tips for this mysterious art. I won’t get out in the weeds too much, but there are some important things to know when you delve seriously into outdoor cookery. I hope that I’ll provide some ideas and inspiration here for the veteran barbecuists as well.

Buy a chimney. Not the kind that goes on top of your house, but a small metal cylinder that you can pick up at the hardware store (or sometimes the Co-op!). It’s vented and has a grate at the bottom. You set it on your barbecue, fill it three-quarters full with charcoal, and put paper underneath. Light it up, you’ll have hot coals in about 20 minutes. Use hardwood charcoal. Briquettes are alright, but avoid the match light options and look for all hardwood. Natural hardwood charcoal is best in my opinion, though you’ll sometimes have to break up large pieces. There is no reason to use igniting fluid unless you enjoy the flavor.

Have a hotter side and a cooler side of your grill. This will be old hat for most of you, but it never hurts to reiterate. Dump the hot coals on one side of the barbecue and push them around to even them out. That, obviously, is your hot side. You should always have a wire brush handy to clean your grill. As it heats up, give it a good brushing.

Try grilling everything. Firm fruit and vegetables are easier to grill than soft ones. Marinades are overrated. Think about the permeability of the outside. Eggplant? It acts like a sponge when it’s cut. Marinated, it’ll light on fire or turn to mush and fall through the grill. Instead, stuff some garlic cloves into slits in the skin, cook it whole, and then peel it when it’s blackened. Peppers should just be blackened whole and then peeled and seeded when cool.

Asparagus, leeks, onions, Brussels sprouts, mushrooms, and lots of other fruits and veggies don’t benefit from marinades. Just toss them with a little oil, salt, and pepper before grilling and then dress afterwards. Produce items like this will go in the middle of the grill so that they don’t blacken before they’re cooked through. Juicy, firm fruits and veggies like pineapple, crisp watermelon, firm peaches, or mangos won’t absorb oil – dust them with salt and spices like chilies, cinnamon, sugar (not too much or that’s another fire), ginger, or Tajín. Cook these on the hot side to char quickly and keep crisp. You can toss with fresh citrus, herbs, feta, and salad dressing afterward.

Next: nobody likes a dry dog. Whether they’re meat or plant-based, sausages can dry out quickly. There are a couple things you can do. One trick is to simmer the dogs in liquid beforehand – you won’t want to do this with raw sausages as they will lose too much fat, but hot dogs, veggie sausages, and precooked sausages all benefit. Simmer in some combination of water (hot dogs, in particular, are fine in just water), beer, cider (fresh or hard), broth, or sauerkraut.

The second trick is much more important: have a skillet on the cooler side of your grill with a similar combo of liquids, mostly sauerkraut, that you throw the finished sausages into. You can caramelize onions beforehand, or grill onions and toss them in. You can also add brandy, sherry, kimchi, or rice wine. Keep adding liquid and kraut as it is eaten and evaporates, and you have yourself a triple-S: a sustainable sausage situation.

I love to barbecue, and I do it year-round.  I’ll throw you one last southern-boy tip: barbecue your corn in the husk after first soaking in cold water! Shake off excess water and put on the grill. This process keeps it from losing too much moisture, and you end up with kernels that burst as you bite them. You can even shuck it afterwards and throw it on the hot side of the grill for a moment to get a little char! Add some Tajín. May your summer be bright and full of friends, family, and good barbecue.

By Ben Goe